The taste is warm but dry, like an enthusiasm held under restraint, and there is a tantalizing suspicion of bitterness when the wine hits the top of the palate. With the second glass, the enthusiasm gains; with the third, it is over-powering. The effect is generous and calorific, stimulative of celebration and the social instincts. "An apparently light treacherous rosé," Root (a food writer) calls it, with a nuance of resentment that hints at misadventure.
Brilliant. I've never heard of Tavel, but now want to try this bitter, treacherous wine that points to misadventure.