This Good Beer Hunting (GBH) article punctures the narrative that low abv beers are the future of craft beer. The most recent episode of the Modern Times podcast (Episode 5) confirms GBH's story, at least in terms of IPA production, where Modern Times focuses on higher abv double IPAs, not regular IPAs for its monthly special releases (at around the 19:00 minute mark). People are drinking beer for the alcohol and brewers are meeting consumer demand.
Most "session" IPAs I have tried have been thin and forgettable. I don't think the IPA style lends itself to beers much below 5.5% abv, as a heavy dose of hops needs a good amount of malt to get a palatable ratio, which boosts the abv. If not, you are left with an overly bitter, light beer. The thought of "sessioning" a session IPA hurts my stomach. I had the same thought during the brief fad for lame Brut IPAs, which seems to have gone away. Who was Brut IPA's target customer anyhow? The resurgence of excellent pilsners, and similar German-stye beers is a trend to watch, and should bring a wry smile to your lips as you remember your brief dabbles into session IPAs and how you lied to yourself that you actually liked those beers.
The best lagers, pilsners, and kolsch beers shine in the 4% to 6% abv range. Stone Brewing's Arrogant Consortia's 5.8% abv Enter the Night Pilsner is excellent. Eppig Brewing has a bunch of beers at or below 6% abv, including its special release Best of San Diego pilsner and its Festbier, and I think I have stated in nearly every recent post that Eppig Brewing's 4.6% abv Zwickelbier is one of the best beers in San Diego, and I suspect it's one of Eppig's best sellers. There are popular IPA-type beers, too. One of the top selling and best tasting beers in San Diego is AleSmith's .394, which is a pale ale at 6.0% abv, but it could pass as an IPA.
My own beer drinking does not track the high abv trend. I used to routinely drink Ruination, Palate Wrecker, Winter and Summer YuleSmith, Dorado, and Tongue Buckler. Not anymore. Now I prefer IPAs around 6% abv, and try not to exceed 7.5% abv; it is my Pupil Line. Stone Brewing's 23rd Anniversary IPA and its Enjoy By IPAs are rare, welcome exceptions. The high abv barrel-aged beers I have just take up space in my fridge and closet. I never find an appropriate excuse to crack one of these high abv beers, even if packaged in a smaller bottle.
High abv beers may be showing the strongest growth, but I think the
under 5% abv and 5.0% to 6.9% abv categories have growth opportunities
with pilsners, other lagers, and good ales. I know I look for beers with good taste and moderate abv. Breweries that avoid session IPAs and focus on better tasting, more well-rounded beers with low to moderate abvs can expect to see sales growth exceed industry averages.
Thursday, October 3, 2019
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